Thursday is my last day in Cameroon. I'm scheduled to be anointed the Mufua for Nkem of the Fontem tribe. I'm excited. Professor Amin reviewed the process of the ceremony. Fortunately it is very simple. And they take this very SERIOUSLY. After that point, I will only be referred to as Mafua, unless we're in professional settings.
If I have time after the ceremony, I'll give you the rundown. If not, this will be my last post before returning home. If it is my last post, thanks for sharing this experience with me. I had planned to write more but limited internet access didn't make it possible. The internet connection is slow so I doubt I'll post any pictures until after my return--although I do at least want to post the pictures of me receiving my chicken from the Fon :-)
Later . . .
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Highlights of the Belo trip . . .
I'm back in Yaounde now. As far as creature comforts go, I was miserable in Belo. However, I'm not going to talk about it because I'll just sound like the whining American that I am :-)
So let me give you highlights of my trip to Belo
***Went to a Baptist church service in the village. Interesting to note two similarities of black baptist churches at home and in the baptist church in the village--the choir/singing was absolutely fantastic and the service lasted WAY to long--hahaha
***Visited a program to help widows in two other villages. A moving experience. In both they called me their long lost daughter who has returned home to help them. Many women were visibly emotional to see me and in both places they sang impromptu tribal songs to welcome me. I was so overcome by emotion that I literally thought I was going to pass out.
***Took a trip to the palace of the leader of the Kom (Tikar) people. He's an older man in his 90's. His title is the Fon (phone)and his blood line for this title goes back for centuries. We had to go WAY up to a remote spot on the top of one of the mountains--I'm talking nose bleed elevation. It was very lush and unspoiled. The palace is basically a series of well constructed huts with spacious courtyards. It isn't opulent like palaces in other cultures. Very simple and basic. However, you know you're in a special place. I had to offer him gifts of wine, juice, honey, and a small financial offering. When we arrived, my guide gave an official my gifts. We had to wait about 15 minutes to see whether he would receive me and my party. The official summoned us to his throne, which is in a large courtyard surrounded by benches for official guests and dignitaries. Women and men were ordered to stand on different sides of the throne. We had to bow while he looked at us quietly. My guide spoke to him in the Kom language and explained the reason for our visit. He didn't say anything to me at first. He was interested in talking to one of my companions who's family is part of the royal family. He chatted with her and then requested we sit across the courtyard. He spoke to my guide and then there was a long, long silence. He finally requested I come to his throne. An official placed a traditional wrap around my waist. He spoke and my guide interpreted him saying he hoped he lived long enough for all Kom children to return home from around the world to help the tribe improve its condition. Then he gave me and my daughter our African names. I am Nayah (ni-ya) and my daughter is Niih (nuh) I wanted to get names for my brothers but I was told they would have to come and receive them. Then he presented me with a live chicken and told me to take it as a blessing. (And yes I have pictures!) He dismissed me. After a few minutes he summoned me back. He had two little girls beside him. They were named Nayah and Niih. He asked me what would I do for them. At first I was scared because I thought he might want me to adopt them or something:-) I hesitated for a second and said that I'd happy to do whatever I could for them. That was the FIRST time he smiled at me. He dismissed me again. Then we were told that the audience was over. As we were leaving, he requested I come back and view the woman's section of the palace. He apologized for not asking us to stay to eat, but the rains were coming and didn't want me to be stranded up on the mountain. (The roads are treacherous there.) That concluded the visit. Seems like a dream . . .
So let me give you highlights of my trip to Belo
***Went to a Baptist church service in the village. Interesting to note two similarities of black baptist churches at home and in the baptist church in the village--the choir/singing was absolutely fantastic and the service lasted WAY to long--hahaha
***Visited a program to help widows in two other villages. A moving experience. In both they called me their long lost daughter who has returned home to help them. Many women were visibly emotional to see me and in both places they sang impromptu tribal songs to welcome me. I was so overcome by emotion that I literally thought I was going to pass out.
***Took a trip to the palace of the leader of the Kom (Tikar) people. He's an older man in his 90's. His title is the Fon (phone)and his blood line for this title goes back for centuries. We had to go WAY up to a remote spot on the top of one of the mountains--I'm talking nose bleed elevation. It was very lush and unspoiled. The palace is basically a series of well constructed huts with spacious courtyards. It isn't opulent like palaces in other cultures. Very simple and basic. However, you know you're in a special place. I had to offer him gifts of wine, juice, honey, and a small financial offering. When we arrived, my guide gave an official my gifts. We had to wait about 15 minutes to see whether he would receive me and my party. The official summoned us to his throne, which is in a large courtyard surrounded by benches for official guests and dignitaries. Women and men were ordered to stand on different sides of the throne. We had to bow while he looked at us quietly. My guide spoke to him in the Kom language and explained the reason for our visit. He didn't say anything to me at first. He was interested in talking to one of my companions who's family is part of the royal family. He chatted with her and then requested we sit across the courtyard. He spoke to my guide and then there was a long, long silence. He finally requested I come to his throne. An official placed a traditional wrap around my waist. He spoke and my guide interpreted him saying he hoped he lived long enough for all Kom children to return home from around the world to help the tribe improve its condition. Then he gave me and my daughter our African names. I am Nayah (ni-ya) and my daughter is Niih (nuh) I wanted to get names for my brothers but I was told they would have to come and receive them. Then he presented me with a live chicken and told me to take it as a blessing. (And yes I have pictures!) He dismissed me. After a few minutes he summoned me back. He had two little girls beside him. They were named Nayah and Niih. He asked me what would I do for them. At first I was scared because I thought he might want me to adopt them or something:-) I hesitated for a second and said that I'd happy to do whatever I could for them. That was the FIRST time he smiled at me. He dismissed me again. Then we were told that the audience was over. As we were leaving, he requested I come back and view the woman's section of the palace. He apologized for not asking us to stay to eat, but the rains were coming and didn't want me to be stranded up on the mountain. (The roads are treacherous there.) That concluded the visit. Seems like a dream . . .
Sunday, July 29, 2007
In Belo
Limited access to phones and Internet. Very different from Yaounde. I'm out in a remote village with very little creature comforts. The people are incredibly nice, but I've never been a person into "roughing" it and that's exactly what it is like out here.
The environment is lush. In the mountains surrounded by waterfalls. Will try to update more when I can get to another computer.
Experiences like this makes you appreciate the standard of living in the US :-)
The environment is lush. In the mountains surrounded by waterfalls. Will try to update more when I can get to another computer.
Experiences like this makes you appreciate the standard of living in the US :-)
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Seems like a fairy tale, part two
The next day three delightful Tikar women from Belo, who live in Yaoundé, came to see me. They welcomed me to Cameroon and invited me to join their women’s organization, which helps Tikar people in the northwest province. I will pay the membership fee and join.
Belo is the location of the other organization where I’m volunteering. I was supposed to meet my contact there Saturday and stay until Wednesday. But he and I have been having problems connecting and confirming. I was about to abandon the idea of volunteering there and meeting the Tikar tribe until the visit from the ladies. They said they planned to call the mayor of Belo to meet me Saturday. Although not confirmed, they said I will probably be staying in one of his residences. He’ll show me around and provide some history for me. The ladies expressed regret that because of slavery I have lost my African ancestral family name. As a result the mayor and the others in the tribe would not be able to trace my specific family. (When my finances allow, I will hire a private investigator to do a record search starting in Mississippi to trace my family name. It’s doubtful, but it’s worth a try.)
They were so nice to me and kept saying how God had brought me to them. They prayed a blessing over me. Their warmth and sincerity actually made me cry. They asked about my parents and fully expect me to bring my daughter and brothers here next year so they can welcome them as members of the Tikar tribe.
During the visit from the Tikar ladies, Martin came in and invited them to my mufua ceremony. They promised to come and wear the uniform that represents the tribe and their organization. In addition, during the workshop, Martin invited all the participants to the mufua ceremony. Of course, this will generate good publicity for CITEC, as well as making me feel part of a family.
Now you can see why I used the term fairy tale to describe these events. It truly sounds like a plot from a Hollywood feel good movie. I had no expectations about this trip. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine these experiences. Like all of us, I have had my share of rejection and abandonment. Therefore it has been a true blessing to be so warmly welcomed and appreciated by so many people.
On my 'milestone' birthday last week I had this unfamiliar moment of peace in my soul. I knew that I was in a place in my life where acceptance by others no longer mattered. I find it interesting that within a week of REALLY letting go my lifelong obsession for acceptance, I’m experiencing acceptance in abundance (except at the Yaoundé airport :-)
I don’t know what tomorrow will bring. By the end of this trip they might want to run me out of the country :-) But this woman who grew up an unattractive, socially awkward girl from Meridian, Mississippi TREASURES AND APPRECIATES EVERY MOMENT.
Belo is the location of the other organization where I’m volunteering. I was supposed to meet my contact there Saturday and stay until Wednesday. But he and I have been having problems connecting and confirming. I was about to abandon the idea of volunteering there and meeting the Tikar tribe until the visit from the ladies. They said they planned to call the mayor of Belo to meet me Saturday. Although not confirmed, they said I will probably be staying in one of his residences. He’ll show me around and provide some history for me. The ladies expressed regret that because of slavery I have lost my African ancestral family name. As a result the mayor and the others in the tribe would not be able to trace my specific family. (When my finances allow, I will hire a private investigator to do a record search starting in Mississippi to trace my family name. It’s doubtful, but it’s worth a try.)
They were so nice to me and kept saying how God had brought me to them. They prayed a blessing over me. Their warmth and sincerity actually made me cry. They asked about my parents and fully expect me to bring my daughter and brothers here next year so they can welcome them as members of the Tikar tribe.
During the visit from the Tikar ladies, Martin came in and invited them to my mufua ceremony. They promised to come and wear the uniform that represents the tribe and their organization. In addition, during the workshop, Martin invited all the participants to the mufua ceremony. Of course, this will generate good publicity for CITEC, as well as making me feel part of a family.
Now you can see why I used the term fairy tale to describe these events. It truly sounds like a plot from a Hollywood feel good movie. I had no expectations about this trip. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine these experiences. Like all of us, I have had my share of rejection and abandonment. Therefore it has been a true blessing to be so warmly welcomed and appreciated by so many people.
On my 'milestone' birthday last week I had this unfamiliar moment of peace in my soul. I knew that I was in a place in my life where acceptance by others no longer mattered. I find it interesting that within a week of REALLY letting go my lifelong obsession for acceptance, I’m experiencing acceptance in abundance (except at the Yaoundé airport :-)
I don’t know what tomorrow will bring. By the end of this trip they might want to run me out of the country :-) But this woman who grew up an unattractive, socially awkward girl from Meridian, Mississippi TREASURES AND APPRECIATES EVERY MOMENT.
Seems like a fairy tale, part one
After Tuesday’s presentation, Martin said he wanted to have a serious discussion with me. I listened as he explained that he is a nobleman in his tribe called Fontem. His position is called a nkem (kim). He and other nkems serve just below the tribal chief. There are pictures of him dressed in ceremonial robes. I just thought they were typical African traditional clothing. As he was speaking, his wife got up and showed more pictures to confirm his position.
Each nkem can select a woman, called a mufua (moo-frwa), to be his assistant. The mufua represents the nkem in business matters and makes sure his wishes are executed. The mufua also manages other women in the tribe. Other women must cater to her and defer to her wishes. I guess you can tell where I'm going with this. Nkem Martin Amin asked me to be a mufua in the Fontem tribe, based on my work and attitude.
Of course I thought he was having a joke at the expense of his clueless African American visitor. But he and the entire family insisted that this was a legitimate invitation, not commonly extended. The attitude of the children convinced me the most. They were deadly serious, no snickering or teasing me the way they sometimes do.
After getting further assurance from his wife, I humbly accepted. It's an honor that he would think enough of me to embrace me in his family and his tribe. I have tremendous respect and admiration for this scholarly, kind gentleman.
But this is the kicker: on the Thursday before I leave, there will the first of two ceremonies. In the first ceremony on Thursday, they will anoint me as a mufua. Then they want me to return next May to go to their tribe in the southwest province for a second ceremony in front of the chief and the entire tribe. I am to bring my daughter and brothers, as they will now be related to a mufua. (I have to check, but I think they said this title passes down to my daughter. I know the nkem title passes down to one of Martin’s sons.)
Since I'm Tikar from the northwest province I asked if I can assume this role in the Fontem tribe in the southwest province. According to Martin and Stella, all the western provinces, be it north or south, have this concept of mufua. So a Tikar can be a mufua in the Fontem tribe.
So I will now be Mufua BeLinda Nichols.
Note: Although I appreciate and embrace this honor, the egalitarian soul that I am does not feel comfortable being in a position that requires other women to cater to me. However, since I don’t live here or in the village, it won’t pose a problem :-)
Each nkem can select a woman, called a mufua (moo-frwa), to be his assistant. The mufua represents the nkem in business matters and makes sure his wishes are executed. The mufua also manages other women in the tribe. Other women must cater to her and defer to her wishes. I guess you can tell where I'm going with this. Nkem Martin Amin asked me to be a mufua in the Fontem tribe, based on my work and attitude.
Of course I thought he was having a joke at the expense of his clueless African American visitor. But he and the entire family insisted that this was a legitimate invitation, not commonly extended. The attitude of the children convinced me the most. They were deadly serious, no snickering or teasing me the way they sometimes do.
After getting further assurance from his wife, I humbly accepted. It's an honor that he would think enough of me to embrace me in his family and his tribe. I have tremendous respect and admiration for this scholarly, kind gentleman.
But this is the kicker: on the Thursday before I leave, there will the first of two ceremonies. In the first ceremony on Thursday, they will anoint me as a mufua. Then they want me to return next May to go to their tribe in the southwest province for a second ceremony in front of the chief and the entire tribe. I am to bring my daughter and brothers, as they will now be related to a mufua. (I have to check, but I think they said this title passes down to my daughter. I know the nkem title passes down to one of Martin’s sons.)
Since I'm Tikar from the northwest province I asked if I can assume this role in the Fontem tribe in the southwest province. According to Martin and Stella, all the western provinces, be it north or south, have this concept of mufua. So a Tikar can be a mufua in the Fontem tribe.
So I will now be Mufua BeLinda Nichols.
Note: Although I appreciate and embrace this honor, the egalitarian soul that I am does not feel comfortable being in a position that requires other women to cater to me. However, since I don’t live here or in the village, it won’t pose a problem :-)
For my soror in Los Angeles . . .
Being here with the men in Cameroon is like being a diabetic in a Whitman sampler. You have all these delicious chocolate flavors, but you're afraid to take a bite because you might go into shock ;-)
Despite it all I still managed to get photos . . .
I will load them up later today on Shutterfly. com (or some other similar photo sharing site)and provide the link.
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